Nose: I joined a sherry bomb tasting last week and could easily have snuck this in. With this nose, it might have even taken best in show. Leather, cocoa fruit pods, tobacco. Dried cherries, dates and ripe end of season plums. Back to the chocolate.

Palate: First sip is like an ephemeral dream, fleeting. Wish it had a hint more kick as it starts in thin. But once I set that high proof whisky curmudgeon in his corner and chill the duck out, I really delight in the palate. I used to soak dark cherries in bourbon in my freezer. In theory to make cocktails but in reality because they make such a sweet-tart rich bite. A craft cola that leans into its herbal nature. Very gentle coffee and chocolate notes. The oak shows as a mild tannic bitter but at this abv it’s a beautiful base note.

Rating: 7 / 10 – the more I drink the more it evolves. If you told me this was an old glen grant I would believe you.