Nose: Wow. Huge fruit and spice hit. I can’t believe how concentrated it is and how appley it shines after such time in oak. Cloves. Star of anise, Portobello. Roasted red bell pepper. My parents have an orchard, apples, pears, cherries etc. Each year they mulch fallen trees from the property and place another barrier layer. In crisp, early fall mornings, when the trees are laden with fruit, and the ground is moist with dew, that bark mulch has a unique rich smell. Of forest, dankness, tannins, fallen apples and the bright smell of wood.

Palate: I cannot believe the depth of flavor. At 40% this might be the deepest dish served. Bold sweet apples, with a beautiful acidity and tannin layer. I have a weakness for apple fritters. In fact, when stateside, I often find a wayside donut show to score one as I rarely find them abroad. Intense Vietnamese cinnamon sticks. Touch of cardamom and black pepper. Anise. This almost takes me into garam masala notes. The oak is so well integrated, with the intensity of old oak, without going off the rails.

Rating: 10 / 10 – this is spectacular. I’ve tried it three times and just wow. One of the best pours of the year.