Nose: An intense sea breeze tossing layers of salinity onto the shore. Lemon peel. Heavily smoked almonds and grilled nectarines. But I wouldn’t call it sweet bbq smoke. Too coastal. And a rich layer of hot chocolate, straight up cola-cao, and my grandfather’s pipe tobacco in the pouch.

Palate: A neurotically graceful pairing. Went coastal hiking with the kids in Porto today and packed snacks. Dried pineapple and salted peanuts. Which is nearly as bizarre as it sounds. Who would have guessed B would pair that in a glass. We had to feed my daughter before she killed me in a feat of hanger a couple hours in. Fortuitously, some dude was grilling ribs and salmon for sale along the trail. Brilliant, sketchy, delicious. The man measured salt in handfuls and crushed peppercorns with his fingers. Got to love Portugal. The salinity on this pour is off the charts. As a surfer, it brings it home for me.

Rating: 6 / 10 – It is a fascinating and challenging blend and just plain good. But I couldn’t see going to it often, it will take me a while to finish this one.