Nose: We went shopping for a Christmas tree today. After moving to the Canaries, Julie decided that our annual tradition of driving up into the mountain to murder a tree and hang its carcass in our living room to slowly atrophy until we turn it into kindling was to be traded in for a more sensible annual plastic ornament. I’m quite bah-humbug in general, but will admit to a touch of love for the bouquet of the season. I miss the smell of the holidays. Dried chopped wood with touches of sap. Fruit Panettone. Or maybe closer to fruit cake, with a serious focus on liquored cherries. Mulled wine with cinnamon, cloves, cranberries. I had planned to get right to drinking this but got distracted doing tax planning. Coming back 20 minutes later, it smells more green. The wood feels more piney, and there is a hint of wheatgrass.

Palate: Kapow. Spicey. Sweet. Woody. Intense but an oddly gentle finish with subtle cherry notes. A bit drying. I was gritting my teeth ready to fight back an herbal assault that never quite showed up, but rather presents as dutch salted licorice. We’re talking about sweet peppers, aleppo chiles, stewed figs, molasses and dark fruit. Just a gorgeous wood wallop that reminds me of a well balanced rye.

Rating: 7 / 10 – yes please